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McKinnon
#1 Posted : 1/11/2011 9:42:32 PM
McKinnon

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Location: New Jersey
Has anyone else encountered the problem of vibrating and rattling portholes on your b/b drums? 3 of my 5 drums port holes rattle when they are hit. the metal ports arent snug at all, so in turn they vibrate. =[ anyone else? also any ideas on fixing this?
1990 Tama Rockstar DX in White
12 and 14 inch rack toms
16 and 18 floor toms
22 Bass

Tama Starclassic B/B in Darkstardust fade
10x8 and 12x10 rack toms
16x14 and 18x16 floor
22x18 bass
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audiotech
#2 Posted : 1/11/2011 11:24:07 PM
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I believe you mean "vent hole". I've heard of this problem a few times before. Actually I had a vent hole in one of my Gretsch Renown shells that I had to tighten because of it rattling. I've never heard of three drums in the same set having that same problem. Quality control, or absence of it.

Dennis
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NMiller
#4 Posted : 1/11/2011 11:58:20 PM
NMiller

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Location: Alliance, Ne
Just to drop a line quick, mine got played 4-6 hours a day every day for almost the first year of their life and I had no rattles or issues yet. One of the last works I did before moving was a in the studio and I didnt hear anything there either. I was in a semi sound controlled environment last time I jammed a few weeks ago with the fellas and didnt hear it then either.
2007-08 Starclassic B/B Dark Stardust Fade:
7x8, 8x10, 9x12 toms 12x14, 14x16, 16x18 floor toms
18x22 kick, 14x20 maple gong
4x14 + 5 1/2x14 artwood custom, 6x14 Masai + Valkyrie Warlord snares
(just going to list the Tama snares so i'm not here all night..lol)
443 + 472 Octobans
LP Piccolo, high, and low jam blocks
Roland SPD-S Sampling Percussion Pad
Zildjian Cymbals:
14" A Custom Mastersound + 14" A Custom(on remote) hats
22" A Custom Ride (I use a 20" for smaller venues)
16" A Custom crash(x2) 16" + 17" A Custom Projection crashes
10" A Custom(x2) + 9" and 11" K Custom splashes
18" K Custom and 18" A Custom China's
Sabian Max Stax(Mid) <-- love this thing but just moved to where prog doesnt exist :(
DW: 9002 double-kick, 9500 and 9502 remote hat stands
Gibraltar V Rack

On order next month:
Quilted Bubinga Elite Deep Forest Burst...same config as above... Thank you Matthew and TAMA!!
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McKinnon
#3 Posted : 1/12/2011 10:09:41 AM
McKinnon

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Joined: 8/28/2010(UTC)
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Location: New Jersey
audiotech wrote:
I believe you mean "vent hole". I've heard of this problem a few times before. Actually I had a vent hole in one of my Gretsch Renown shells that I had to tighten because of it rattling. I've never heard of three drums in the same set having that same problem. Quality control, or absence of it.

Dennis



haha yeah vent hole, but either way, do you have any suggestions for me??? is there a way to tighten them? or to i have to like put some super glue in htere or something?
1990 Tama Rockstar DX in White
12 and 14 inch rack toms
16 and 18 floor toms
22 Bass

Tama Starclassic B/B in Darkstardust fade
10x8 and 12x10 rack toms
16x14 and 18x16 floor
22x18 bass
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sandman
#5 Posted : 1/12/2011 12:24:58 PM
sandman

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To correct loose vents, you need a eyelet(vent) installation tool which crimps the eyelet and tightens it against the shell to prevent rattling. You can order a eyelet installation tool from Precision Drum for $5.00. It's a great tool to have in your stick bag for emergencies. Go here http://precisiondrum.com/html/parts.html and check it out.
sandman attached the following image(s):
sandman attached the following image(s): EIT.gif
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McKinnon
#6 Posted : 1/12/2011 8:50:56 PM
McKinnon

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Joined: 8/28/2010(UTC)
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Location: New Jersey
sandman wrote:
To correct loose vents, you need a eyelet(vent) installation tool which crimps the eyelet and tightens it against the shell to prevent rattling. You can order a eyelet installation tool from Precision Drum for $5.00. It's a great tool to have in your stick bag for emergencies. Go here http://precisiondrum.com/html/parts.html and check it out.


sweet! and i am gonna have to buy more eyelets too? or i can just tighten the ones on there now with this?
1990 Tama Rockstar DX in White
12 and 14 inch rack toms
16 and 18 floor toms
22 Bass

Tama Starclassic B/B in Darkstardust fade
10x8 and 12x10 rack toms
16x14 and 18x16 floor
22x18 bass
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sandman
#7 Posted : 1/12/2011 9:29:55 PM
sandman

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Yes, you just put the allen wrench headed bolt through the existing factory eyelet, thread the nylon spacer and backing nut on the other side of the shell and carefully, slowly turn until the eyelet tool is gently putting pressure on the eyelet. Turn it little by little to mash the factory eyelet tight. Once you have mashed it adequately tight, you'll never have to worry about it making noise again. I can't stress the importance of being very careful not to overtighten and end up cracking the shell around the eyelet hole. Gentle pressure is all that is needed...very gentle!!!! These tools are generally sold for people who re-wrap their drums for installing new eyelets once the new wrap is applied but they work great for loose eyelets too. I keep one in my stick bag because you never know when you may develop a rattling vent and if you are in a studio environment, you need to be able to fix on the fly.

Never ever try to use glue to fix a metal or aluminum vent!!! If you have a wrapped kit especially since most wraps are made out of acetate, Most instantly bonding glues like Super Glue contain a chemical agent called Cyanoacrylate. If Cyanoacrylate comes in contact with your acetate based drum wrap, it will melt it on contact and ruin it instantly. If you have a stain or lacquered finish, it could react with the chemicals in the finish and ruin them as well so stay away from any "Home Engineering" to repair drums on the fly.
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drumminav8r
#8 Posted : 6/22/2011 11:39:50 AM
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Joined: 9/6/2010(UTC)
Posts: 30
Location: North Carolina
Hey Sandman, or anyone else for that matter...I just received my Starclassic B/B kit (Diamond Dust) and one of the eyelets is slightly loose. I ordered the eyelet installation tool from Precision Drum (thanks for the link in this thread, by the way), but they called me back shortly thereafter to ask which model I needed. One model is for 1/2-inch eyelets, and the other is for 3/8-inch eyelets. One model is also used on 7/16-inch eyelets, but the person taking the order wasn't sure which one. I measured the inside diameter of the B/B eyelet at approximately 3/8 of an inch (a yardstick is a crude measuring device when you need to be precise). So, I asked for the 3/8-inch model of the eyelet installation tool. Can you, or anyone else, confirm that is the correct tool to use on the B/B drum eyelets? Thanks.
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sandman
#9 Posted : 6/23/2011 1:10:47 AM
sandman

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You should be fine as long as the main bolt fits through the eyelet you are tightening up. Just make sure and center it before commencing to tighten down. Go very slowly and don't overtighen and end up crushing the inside/outside plys of the drum shell. Just snug it gently, loosen the tool, and check to see if the rattling has stopped. You'll do fine.
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drumminav8r
#10 Posted : 6/23/2011 11:57:47 PM
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Location: North Carolina
Thanks for the guidance, Sandman. I'll let you know how it goes.
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drumminav8r
#11 Posted : 6/30/2011 11:05:52 PM
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Location: North Carolina
Hey Sandman, when using the eyelet installation tool, is the allen-wrench-headed side of the bolt on the inside of the drum shell with the nylon spacer, metal washer, and nut on the outside (wrap side) of the shell? Or is it the other way around? And from your description above, it does sound like both the nylon spacer and metal washer are on the same side of the shell. Do I have that right? I just want to make sure I use the correct procedure so I don't scratch the wrap (finished) side of the eyelet, in addition to not overtightening of course. Thanks.
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sandman
#12 Posted : 7/1/2011 6:17:35 AM
sandman

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Step by step from ST Drums Website where I learned about the Eyelet Installation Tool originally;

Eyelet Tool Installation Method:
put the eylet in the hole in the drum shell
put the bolt through the hole, from the inside to the outside
put the nylon washer on the bolt (outside of the shell of course)
put the metal washer on the bolt
put the nut on the bolt

Use a screwdriver or allen wrench to hold the bold inside the drum shell
Use a wrench to turn the nut on the outside of the shell
After using some force the cone shaped head of the bolt forces the
inner edge of the eylet outwards Go easy on turning the spanner - small steps at a time and check
to see if the inside rim of the eylet is bent enough already -
otherwise give it a little more force
sandman attached the following image(s):
sandman attached the following image(s): eyelet6.jpg
sandman attached the following image(s): eyelet5.jpg
sandman attached the following image(s): eyelet3.jpg
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drumminav8r
#13 Posted : 7/1/2011 8:04:28 PM
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Very helpful, Sandman. That's the way I had it pictured in my mind, and those illustrations confirmed my suspicions. Thanks again for the help.
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sandman
#14 Posted : 7/1/2011 8:34:45 PM
sandman

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Anytime, my friend. I have to give all the credit to Gerd, the owner of St Drums which is based in Germany. He has some of the best tutorials on his site. Very informative and easy to follow. I learned bunches from downloading his turorials over the years. Heck of a nice guy too.

Check out his site: http://www.stdrums.de/
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bterrill
#15 Posted : 1/9/2012 6:12:22 AM
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Joined: 1/9/2012(UTC)
Posts: 10
Tama B/B Defects


This is one of many well-known defects/issues with the Tama B/B kits – my rack tom rattle is so prominent our sound man insists I no longer use the Tama kit on stage! As usual, Tama does not reply to most confirmed defects on their kits.

Here is the official list of well-known issues:

Vent Rattle – all toms, all B/B kits – no solution!
Rack toms will not stay in tune (significant issue with lugs) – high percentage of B/B kits
Addition Tom Purchase Delays: This one is really inexcusable – unlike Yamaha/Sonor and most kit manufacturers, Tama stocks NOTHING in the US! This applies to all finishes for the B/B kits.

Had I known these issues existed and that Tama refused to take any action to resolve them, would have never purchased the kit! These items are unacceptable for mid-range drum sets (at a premium price)!

I suggest you stay away from Tama products!
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matthew@tama
#16 Posted : 1/9/2012 2:40:15 PM
matthew@tama

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The way to fix this is simple (if you are under warranty we can take care of this for you) but what you would do is, while making sure the vent is sitting on a hard surface, take a Ball bearing (or something hard and round) about the size of the vent, place it in the inside of the the ring (inside the drum) and tap it with a hammer, this will spread it out and secure it to the drum fixing the Rattle...Like I said it's simple but may not be something you feel comfortable doing yourself.

It's just an issue of spreading out the Porthole to secure it to the drum.

let me know if you have any more questions.
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